The term selvage (or "selvedge") is actually a mash-up of the term "self-edge" which has been kicking around for centuries. If you have a background in fabric (and who doesn't?), you might know that every fabric has a selvage. This refers to the finished edge of fabric that prevents it from unraveling once it has been woven or knit. The selvage runs full length of the fabric on either side and is created by looping the threads back on themselves to create an edge that won't fray or unravel. When looking at the fabric the selvage is the thin strip at the outer edge that is no wider than 3/4" wide.
The term selvage denim refers to the way the fabric is woven not the wash on the actual jean. Selvage denims are woven with continuous thread and are created using very narrow loom called "shuttle looms," which are really the key to creating the selvage edge. These looms are able to weave the fabric in narrow widths that way when the pattern is cut, the selvage can be included as the inner finish seam edge. This process creates a stronger fabric overall and so selvage denims tend to be tougher and last longer than regular mass produced denims. If you look at the inside seams of a pair of selvage denims compared to regular denims you'll be able to quickly spot the difference. This photo will explain it a bit better.
Finished inseam of Japanese selvage denim. |
Finished inseam of regular market denims. |
You'll notice that the selvage pair has a red strip that runs along the seam edge. It isn't always red (it can be brown, yellow, or green) but red seems to be the most frequently used color. Selvage denims also have a specific stitch,. In a lot of cases, selvage denim denotes a higher quality, but that's not to say every pair of selvage denims is of superior quality. There are a few other factors that must be considered so it's important to ask questions and check the labels before you drop a months rent on some new blues. Here are a few terms that you might come across. "Sanforizing, Dry Denim, Weight, To wash or not to wash".
Check out Luigi Jeans (www.luigijeans.com) for a selection of high quality Selvage Jeans.